Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves
This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy accretive wave condition. The bulk cross-shore ne...
| Authors: | ; ; ; ; ; ; |
|---|---|
| Format: | Article |
| Publication date: | 2023 |
| Country: | España |
| Institution: | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) |
| Repository: | UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC |
| Language: | English |
| OAI Identifier: | oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/403874 |
| Online Access: | https://hdl.handle.net/2117/403874 https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse11122244 |
| Access Level: | Open access |
| Keyword: | Beaches -- Morphology Sediment transport Beach morphology Large-scale wave flume experiments Swash zone Surf zone Irregular waves Platges -- Morfologia Sediments (Geologia) -- Transport Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia |
| _version_ | 1878739324082585600 |
|---|---|
| author | Dionisio António, Sara |
| author2 | van der Werf, Jebbe Horstman, Erik Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029 Alsina Torrent, José María|||0000-0002-3055-5379 van der Zanden, Joep Hulscher, Suzanne J.M.H. |
| author2_role | author author author author author author |
| author_browse | Alsina Torrent, José María|||0000-0002-3055-5379 Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029 Dionisio António, Sara Horstman, Erik Hulscher, Suzanne J.M.H. van der Werf, Jebbe van der Zanden, Joep |
| author_facet | Dionisio António, Sara van der Werf, Jebbe Horstman, Erik Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029 Alsina Torrent, José María|||0000-0002-3055-5379 van der Zanden, Joep Hulscher, Suzanne J.M.H. |
| author_role | author |
| collection | UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC |
| description | This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy accretive wave condition. The bulk cross-shore net sediment transport was investigated for the total active profile and for the surf and swash zone separately. It is shown that the steep slope is morphologically more active than the gentle slope, with faster and more pronounced morphological changes and larger sediment transport rates. For both slopes, the total and surf zone net sediment transport were offshore-directed for erosive waves and onshore-directed for the accretive wave condition. However, the net swash zone transport for the erosive wave conditions was offshore-directed for the steep slope and onshore-directed for the gentle slope. The direction and magnitude of the total and surf zone sediment transport correlate well with the slope-corrected Dean criterion with increasing offshore-directed sediment transport (erosion) observed for increasing wave energy and bed slope. This relation does not hold for the swash zone sediment transport along the gentle slope, suggesting that swash zone sediment transport processes are not well captured when using a simple predictor such as the (modified) Dean number. Differences in sediment transport in the swash for the different slopes are likely influenced by differences in incoming wave energy, wave–swash interactions and the relative importance of long- and short-waves. |
| eu_rights_str_mv | openAccess |
| format | article |
| id | ES_bf4e5d3e8ebb334dd4ee76c8c52802ab |
| institution | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) |
| instname_str | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) |
| language | eng |
| network_acronym_str | ES |
| network_name_str | España |
| oai_identifier_str | oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/403874 |
| publishDate | 2023 |
| publishDateSort | 2023 |
| publisher | Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI) |
| publisherStr | Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI) |
| reponame_str | UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC |
| spelling | Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves Dionisio António, Sara van der Werf, Jebbe Horstman, Erik Cáceres Rabionet, Iván|||0000-0002-7426-7029 Alsina Torrent, José María|||0000-0002-3055-5379 van der Zanden, Joep Hulscher, Suzanne J.M.H. Beaches -- Morphology Sediment transport Beach morphology Large-scale wave flume experiments Swash zone Surf zone Irregular waves Platges -- Morfologia Sediments (Geologia) -- Transport Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy accretive wave condition. The bulk cross-shore net sediment transport was investigated for the total active profile and for the surf and swash zone separately. It is shown that the steep slope is morphologically more active than the gentle slope, with faster and more pronounced morphological changes and larger sediment transport rates. For both slopes, the total and surf zone net sediment transport were offshore-directed for erosive waves and onshore-directed for the accretive wave condition. However, the net swash zone transport for the erosive wave conditions was offshore-directed for the steep slope and onshore-directed for the gentle slope. The direction and magnitude of the total and surf zone sediment transport correlate well with the slope-corrected Dean criterion with increasing offshore-directed sediment transport (erosion) observed for increasing wave energy and bed slope. This relation does not hold for the swash zone sediment transport along the gentle slope, suggesting that swash zone sediment transport processes are not well captured when using a simple predictor such as the (modified) Dean number. Differences in sediment transport in the swash for the different slopes are likely influenced by differences in incoming wave energy, wave–swash interactions and the relative importance of long- and short-waves. Peer Reviewed Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI) https://hdl.handle.net/2117/403874 https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse11122244 |
| spellingShingle | Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves Dionisio António, Sara Beaches -- Morphology Sediment transport Beach morphology Large-scale wave flume experiments Swash zone Surf zone Irregular waves Platges -- Morfologia Sediments (Geologia) -- Transport Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia |
| title | Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves |
| title_full | Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves |
| title_fullStr | Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves |
| title_full_unstemmed | Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves |
| title_short | Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves |
| title_sort | Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves |
| topic | Beaches -- Morphology Sediment transport Beach morphology Large-scale wave flume experiments Swash zone Surf zone Irregular waves Platges -- Morfologia Sediments (Geologia) -- Transport Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia |
| topic_facet | Beaches -- Morphology Sediment transport Beach morphology Large-scale wave flume experiments Swash zone Surf zone Irregular waves Platges -- Morfologia Sediments (Geologia) -- Transport Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia |
| url | https://hdl.handle.net/2117/403874 https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse11122244 |