An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments

ABSTRACT. During a full tidal cycle, the beach profile is exposed to continuously changing hydrodynamical conditions. Consequently, the profile evolves constantly to adapt to these changes. The equilibrium condition on tidal beaches is defined in terms of the relative occurrence of swash, surf zone...

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Authors: Bernabéu Tello, Ana María; Medina Santamaría, Raúl|||0000-0002-0126-2710; Vidal Pascual, César|||0000-0003-1178-3314 
Format: Article
Publication date:2002
Country:España
Institution:Universidad de Cantabria (UC)
Repository:UCrea Repositorio Abierto de la Universidad de Cantabria
Language:English
OAI Identifier:oai:repositorio.unican.es:10902/4127
Online Access:http://hdl.handle.net/10902/4127
Access Level:Open access
Keyword:Equilibrium beach profile
Tide
Wave breaking
Wave shoaling
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author Bernabéu Tello, Ana María
author2 Medina Santamaría, Raúl|||0000-0002-0126-2710
Vidal Pascual, César|||0000-0003-1178-3314 
author2_role author
author
author_browse Bernabéu Tello, Ana María
Medina Santamaría, Raúl|||0000-0002-0126-2710
Vidal Pascual, César|||0000-0003-1178-3314 
author_facet Bernabéu Tello, Ana María
Medina Santamaría, Raúl|||0000-0002-0126-2710
Vidal Pascual, César|||0000-0003-1178-3314 
author_role author
collection UCrea Repositorio Abierto de la Universidad de Cantabria
description ABSTRACT. During a full tidal cycle, the beach profile is exposed to continuously changing hydrodynamical conditions. Consequently, the profile evolves constantly to adapt to these changes. The equilibrium condition on tidal beaches is defined in terms of the relative occurrence of swash, surf zone and shoaling processes. We have assumed that the tidal beach profile is in equilibrium when the net sediment transport along a tidal cycle is zero. In this model the contribution of swash is considered negligible. A simple and easy-to-apply equilibrium profile formulation is proposed. This model is based on the assumption that surf zone processes dominate the profile morphology wherever wave breaking occurs during the tidal cycle. The obtained equilibrium profile is valid from the high tide level to the breaker point at low tide level. The tidal influence on the profile morphology is the lengthening of the surf profile. The higher the tidal range, the longer the surf profile. The model was tested against field and laboratory data, showing reasonable predictions of measured beach profiles.
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
format article
id ES_56ef13ef2e3d86bd0afdfdceff1bf16e
institution Universidad de Cantabria (UC)
instname_str Universidad de Cantabria (UC)
language eng
network_acronym_str ES
network_name_str España
oai_identifier_str oai:repositorio.unican.es:10902/4127
publishDate 2002
publishDateSort 2002
publisher Instituto de Ciencias del Mar
publisherStr Instituto de Ciencias del Mar
reponame_str UCrea Repositorio Abierto de la Universidad de Cantabria
spelling An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments Bernabéu Tello, Ana María Medina Santamaría, Raúl|||0000-0002-0126-2710 Vidal Pascual, César|||0000-0003-1178-3314  Equilibrium beach profile Tide Wave breaking Wave shoaling ABSTRACT. During a full tidal cycle, the beach profile is exposed to continuously changing hydrodynamical conditions. Consequently, the profile evolves constantly to adapt to these changes. The equilibrium condition on tidal beaches is defined in terms of the relative occurrence of swash, surf zone and shoaling processes. We have assumed that the tidal beach profile is in equilibrium when the net sediment transport along a tidal cycle is zero. In this model the contribution of swash is considered negligible. A simple and easy-to-apply equilibrium profile formulation is proposed. This model is based on the assumption that surf zone processes dominate the profile morphology wherever wave breaking occurs during the tidal cycle. The obtained equilibrium profile is valid from the high tide level to the breaker point at low tide level. The tidal influence on the profile morphology is the lengthening of the surf profile. The higher the tidal range, the longer the surf profile. The model was tested against field and laboratory data, showing reasonable predictions of measured beach profiles. Instituto de Ciencias del Mar http://hdl.handle.net/10902/4127
spellingShingle An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments
Bernabéu Tello, Ana María
Equilibrium beach profile
Tide
Wave breaking
Wave shoaling
title An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments
title_full An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments
title_fullStr An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments
title_full_unstemmed An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments
title_short An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments
title_sort An equilibrium profile model for tidal environments
topic Equilibrium beach profile
Tide
Wave breaking
Wave shoaling
topic_facet Equilibrium beach profile
Tide
Wave breaking
Wave shoaling
url http://hdl.handle.net/10902/4127